It seems to me, for reasons unbeknownst to me, even though I am guilty of the same, that wine lovers of a certain pedigree look down their nose at wines with some level of ubiquity.
Now, say that five times fast.
We call them “grocery store” wines or, worse, like the Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay, we don’t even deign to call…
Their names are familiar – Cline, Bogle, Estancia, like athletes whose talents we long ago took for granted, until they’re gone at which point we can look back wistfully, if fleetingly.
Perception being reality, sometimes we think big isn’t better.
It is the height of elitism, and I am an aware, albeit unwitting participant in this class snobbery.
Oddly enough, I buy plenty of wines, a preponderance of wine, in the same $12 - $15 or $15 - $18 price category, but I seek out labels less familiar to me, an act of masochism, I suppose.
I think wine enthusiasts are natural adventurers, always looking for a discovery, and the tried and true, while safe and comfortable, doesn’t always lead to the thrill that comes from uncovering a new, favorite gem, akin to the indie rock band who is still, as yet, largely unknown.
But, goodness, there are some quality wines at your grocery store for those willing to drink affordably with the familiar.
Take the Hess Collection for instance.
I have seen the familiar, staid red and green labels for the Cabernet and Chardonnay respectively, for several years. I even had a vague notion that it had a reputation for having a high QPR. Still, I never bought it, going through dozens, if not hundreds, of clunkers along the way.
Yet, today, sipping on the 2006 Hess Collection Monterey Chardonnay, I am kicking myself. This wine is good, like really good—better than $12 should taste, in fact.
Crisp, and bright with an abundance of tropical fruit at the fore, green apple and pineapple on the mid-palate, bracing acidity and zippy citrus on the finish, it is a very pleasurable wine.
It is so good in fact, that everybody should buy a bottle. 2006’s are in stores now as the ’07 works its way into the market, released in January.
The reason everybody should buy a bottle is more practical than merely being a good wine—Hess is doing good, as well, an active participant in the so-called triple bottom line, the notion that a responsible organization addresses not just profit, but also people and the planet.
Hess is participating in 1% For the Planet, a non-profit program whereby 1% of all revenue from sales of the Monterey Chardonnay in the month of March is donated to Hess selected environmental programs that are a part of the 1% plan.
In simple terms, 1% For the planet is like the United Way, with a focus on environmental causes as opposed to community based social causes.
Last year, the Napa Land Trust was the cause selected to receive the 1% of Hess sales revenues.
In addition, Hess is Napa Green certified for both land and winery, a designation administered by the Napa Valley Vintners association, and they are a member of the Bay Area Green Business Program.
My lesson learned? Perception is not always reality. Hess (and many other large production wines) does not deserve my consumer neglect just because they can be found in national distribution – it is frequently those wineries with resources that take on leadership roles that help create a rising tide for all wineries.
So, there you have it. I’ve have been converted again—support a company that supports the triple bottom line, and makes some damn fine wine, too, regardless of size.