In honor of the Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) show, taking place next weekend, January 28th – 31st, I thought I would do a quick wine review face-off between two producers who will be pouring at ZAP.
Clos LaChance
This is a winery with many irons in the fire and an eye on growth. I ran across them for the first time while in California recently and then subsequently found them in my local market.
They have taken the traditional route to growth by segmenting their wines with a “Special Selections” series representing six wines, an “Estate” series encompassing 13 wines and a “Hummingbird” series with nine wines. It is the “Hummingbird” wines that are in distribution, and they tend to be priced for everyday consumption - $14 - $25, with most in the $18 range. I would not be surprised to see these wines drop below that $15 retail level, which seems to be the magic spot for many wine enthusiasts, and where the less hardcore enthusiast is doing most of her purchasing if she is buying a nicer bottle.
The greatest compliment I can give the Clos LaChance wines I have tasted and the 2005 Clos LaChance Central Coast Zin (Buff Bellied Hummingbird) that I am reviewing here is these are not “dumb” wines, all fruit and oak in a pretty package.
These are well-crafted, quality wines that are expressive of earth and seemingly diametrically opposed to the flavor du jour (hello, 13.5% alcohol in a Zinfandel – what a nice surprise!). They beg for food. At 60,000 cases of production across their line-up of all wines, if they can maintain quality with the growth, this will be a player to watch. I would not be surprised to see a Wine Business Monthly “Hot Brands” award shortly, either.
Next up on my Clos LaChance “try” list – Nebbiolo and Grenache, two varietals that should be elegant representations in the hands of Stephen Tebb, the Clos LaChance winemaker.
Here is my review of the ’05 Clos LaChance Central Coast Zinfandel (Buff Bellied Hummingbird).
Klinker Brick
I have to admit that I am predisposed to OVZ. Give me an “Old Vine” Zinfandel and chances are I will enjoy it.
For years, Rabbit Ridge has made an estate “OVZ” that is a fabulous price performer, even if I am still peeved at them for pulling out of the Indiana market.
I have noticed that over the last vintage or so, another unfortunate benefit of not having enough choice at the shelf in Indiana, Klinker Brick has been moving up market past the $15 threshold. What used to be a $14 bottle with this reviewed ’05 vintage is now an $18 bottle with new packaging for the ’06 vintage.
I am guessing, like Clos LaChance, they will be making a retreat in channel distribution back below $15 a bottle, however.
Cost aside, the truly astounding thing with this vintage of the Klinker Brick is it clocks in at 15.8% alcohol AND IT’S BALANCED. Really, it is. Not a bit of heat.
To be frank, this is the sort of wine that drives Old World wine lovers bonkers because it is fruit-forward, expressive, high quality and has massive alcohol. Klinker Brick is the exact type of wine that drives people nuts because it represents wine that can merit a Scarlet Letter, but is also undeniably good.
Klinker Brick notes, sidestepping what can be a butchered promotional term in the wine biz, that OVZ wines are typically from vines that are at least 50 years old. Their ’06 Zinfandel is made from vines ranging in age from 37 to 112 years old. The ’05 likely has a similar make-up.
I would urge anybody that favors Old World to try this with an open mind, you will come away impressed that a Lodi Zin at 15.8% alcohol is not a pox on the wine industry.
Here is my review of the ’05 Klinker Brick Lodi “Old Vine” Zinfandel