Good Grape Wine Company

February 14 2007

The Taste of Terroir – An attempt to make sense of Biodynamics Pt. III

By:  Damien Casten

Pt.  III Extracting terroir

Back in Alsace, Jean Schaetzel’s quest for authenticity led him to conduct small scale trials in his vineyards in the middle 1990’s.  He is a careful, scientific, man who does not jump to conclusions and does not waste his time with efforts that will not improve his wine.  Said Jean “I experiment with anything that I think may be beneficial, regardless of what others think.  If it works, I’ll repeat the experiment.  If it works again, I’ll apply it in the vineyard.  I always try a second time but if it fails twice, I move on.”  He bases his biodynamics on what he perceives to be facts and has little time for non-verifiable claims. 

In 1997 Jean was one of the first Alsatian growers to convert all of his vineyards to biodynamics.  Today he grows twenty five individual wines on roughly thirty acres of land.  His two Grand Cru Rieslings tasted earlier from the Kaefferkopf vineyard demonstrate why he takes such pains to vinify so many distinct wines.  Jean has found that the grapes of the same variety draw different nutrients from their respective soils, mature and ferment at different rates.  He does not intervene.  Each process goes as long as necessary.  Since converting to biodynamics he says he can let the grapes hang longer before picking because they are healthier and more resistant. 

Fermentation is slower and longer than before.  This is good news for the wines as they gain body weight and density as they stay in contact with the grape skins and seeds, dead yeast cells and other byproducts of fermentation known as lees.  Jean feels the bitterness that often results from extended contact with the lees is rarely an issue because the grapes, and thus the lees, are clean, having never been chemically treated.  Jean can not explain exactly why fermentation is slower since converting to biodynamics, but the improvement he tastes has convinced him to stay the course.  What’s more, the extended contact with the lees increases the natural sulfur dioxide in the wine that boosts the wines natural defenses against oxidization.  Leave a bottle of Jean’s wine open for three days and more often than not, you will not taste the oxidization that ruins lesser wines in half the time. 

To conclude, a question: Do biodynamic wines taste better? In a word, no.  Remember that grapes grown using biodynamic farming practices must still be fermented into wine, and as anyone who has ever left a pot on the stove can attest, even the best ingredients taste bad in the hands of a careless chef.  The good news is that organic and biodynamic farmers are, more often than not, very attentive to details, particularly when it comes to their grapes.  More and more, the world’s greatest wines seem to be coming from organic and biodynamic grapes.  Chapoutier, Pingus, Leroy, DRC, Zind-Humbrecht and many small producers you’ve of whom you’ve never heard are converting vineyards every year.  So what’s next? Now comes the fun part.  With all the scientific rigor you can manage, obtain comparative samples, procure glassware, call some friends, and investigate for yourself.  Do not assume that all organic growers produce good wines, or that all makers of good wine are strictly organic.  Like any product on the market, the consumer is the ultimate judge and the choice is up to you.  And remember, no matter how much you study, read, taste and learn, the only reason wine exists is happiness.  Pursue it. 

Notes:
The addition of sulfur dioxide to wine is a common practice.  It dates back to the 1600’s when the Dutch discovered sulfur’s ability to stabilize and protect wines on long sea voyages.  Today, sulfur is used as a cleaning agent in wine.  It fights bacteria, inhibits oxygen and kills wild yeasts which are susceptible to sulfur and less predictable than their cultivated cousins.  US labeling regarding sulfites and organics can be a bit confusing. 

• “Organic” on a label means that grapes have been grown by a certified organic grower and that there was no sulfur dioxide added during the winemaking process. 
• “Made with organically grown grapes” means that the grapes were certified organic but sulfur dioxide was added during winemaking. 
• “Contains Sulfites” indicates a concentration of sulfur dioxide greater than 10 parts per million.  As a small amount of sulfur dioxide is a byproduct of fermentation, this is seen on almost every   wine label. 

Asthmatics and others who are particularly sensitive to sulfur should know that sweet wines often contain considerably higher amounts of sulfur than dry wines.  This is because extra sulfur is used to stop fermentation and protect the residual sugar that gives sweet wines their name. 

Authors Note:  Quote from Jean Schaetzel a direct attribution from personal conversation

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