Good Grape Wine Company

November 3 2009

The Rodney Strong Single Vineyard Program

In the second year of the single vineyard designate program from Rodney Strong I’ve learned something very important:  these wines (two released so far, with a third on the way), while provocative with a come-hither look, are far too young to drink now and are much better on the second day; they’re kind of like, you know, if Nabokov made a batch of Chili.

In fact, the ’06 Rockaway, as beguiling as the ‘05, if not slightly more pensive, is smartly being released to market in February ‘10, allowing for some bottle age and integration.  Upon my opening, it was hot, uncoordinated, and awkward – like a first kiss at a Prom after-party.  After sufficient time in the decanter (forget about an hour – the Rockaway needs at least two hours of vigorous oxygen to start to show), it rounds into form and turns into a delicious, massive wine that belies its 15.4% alcohol.

The Brothers Ridge, for its part, a new release to market with the release of the ‘06 vintage, is also an Alexander Valley Cabernet at the same price point as the Rockaway—$75.  However, the Brothers Ridge comes from vineyards east of Cloverdale, a northerly vineyard to Rockaway and the warmest spot in Sonoma County.  Both wines were provided to me by the winery.

Now, while some will decry the “bigness” of these wines as a source of polarization, I’m not one of them.  The alcohol can partially be explained by a quote attributed to Rodney Strong wine consultant David Ramey in the October 31st issue of Wine Spectator, he notes (not necessarily in regards to Rodney Strong specifically), “This issue of alcohol is overblown.  That’s where our grapes our ripe.  It’s California’s birthright.”

Who am I to disagree especially when the Rockaway, and its little brother, Brothers Ridge, straddle the line so well between ripe and “Californian” without crossing over into “hedonistic” territory, a connotation, to me, that has come to mean, “Australian cough syrup.”

Ironically, the Brothers Ridge, a straight varietal offering in contrast to the splash of Malbec and Petit Verdot (2% and 1% respectively) that made their way into the Rockaway blend, is more classically refined than its big brother.  Both are a part of a triumvirate that will be complete when an offering called “Alexander’s Crown” is released in the future.

It should be noted that 2009 is a big year for Rodney Strong.  Under the stewardship of owner Tom Klein, Rodney Strong continues to act as a pacesetter for the California wine industry, celebrating not just their 50th anniversary in 2009, but also celebrating, notably, the fact that they have become the first winery in Sonoma County to become carbon neutral.

While I vacillate on how I feel about the merits of being carbon neutral when it can be viewed in the same vein as checkbook philanthropy, I have to give credit to people and organizations that take the step forward instead of sitting on their hands.  And, significantly, Rodney Strong has demonstrated a commitment to sustainability over a period of years, dating to 2003 when they first installed solar panels.

Likewise, Rodney Strong the winery earns my admiration when 20 years after the purchase of the winery from Rod Strong the man, they still honor his legacy by making a sizable donation to the Wells Fargo Center in Santa Rosa based on a desire to support the arts and pay homage to the Rod who was a dancer and dance teacher, having danced internationally and on Broadway.

Critics, always ready to take potshots at PR efforts, will dub me a rube for buying into the perception of the largesse, but as a student of marketing, sustainability and good business, I have to note that Rodney Strong, with a multiplicity of efforts at greening, quality AND telling their story are hitting their stride.

2006 Rodney Strong Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon

Not quite as lip-smackingly good as the ’05, this is still a very good effort that needs time in the bottle.  A nose of dark fruits – blackberry, black cherry, blueberry and cassis with hints of bay leaf, black olive juice and menthol gives way to plenty of stuffing on the palate with more dark fruit, menthol and black tea with a deep core of dark chocolate.  The finish isn’t as impressive as the ’05 and the tannins are a little chewier, but this a very nice wine with pedigree that will round into shape over the years to come.  90 points.

2006 Rodney Strong Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon

Big, bold black cherry juice with an earthier quality than the Rockaway.  There’s plenty of fruit on the nose with pleasing and complementary floral and earthy aromatics with hints of green bean.  The palate offers velvety blackberry, blueberry, menthol, and beet juice.  More classically refined and less decadent than the Rockaway, the finish lingers with the fruit and leather to go along with fine grained tannins.  91 points.

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