March 2 2009
It seems to me, for reasons unbeknownst to me, even though I am guilty of the same, that wine lovers of a certain pedigree look down their nose at wines with some level of ubiquity.
Now, say that five times fast.
We call them “grocery store” wines or, worse, like the Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay, we don’t even deign to call…
Their names are familiar – Cline, Bogle, Estancia, like athletes whose talents we long ago took for granted, until they’re gone at which point we can look back wistfully, if fleetingly.
Perception being reality, sometimes we think big isn’t better.
It is the height of elitism, and I am an aware, albeit unwitting participant in this class snobbery.
Oddly enough, I buy plenty of wines, a preponderance of wine, in the same $12 - $15 or $15 - $18 price category, but I seek out labels less familiar to me, an act of masochism, I suppose.
I think wine enthusiasts are natural adventurers, always looking for a discovery, and the tried and true, while safe and comfortable, doesn’t always lead to the thrill that comes from uncovering a new, favorite gem, akin to the indie rock band who is still, as yet, largely unknown.
But, goodness, there are some quality wines at your grocery store for those willing to drink affordably with the familiar.
Take the Hess Collection for instance.
I have seen the familiar, staid red and green labels for the Cabernet and Chardonnay respectively, for several years. I even had a vague notion that it had a reputation for having a high QPR. Still, I never bought it, going through dozens, if not hundreds, of clunkers along the way.
Yet, today, sipping on the 2006 Hess Collection Monterey Chardonnay, I am kicking myself. This wine is good, like really good—better than $12 should taste, in fact.
Crisp, and bright with an abundance of tropical fruit at the fore, green apple and pineapple on the mid-palate, bracing acidity and zippy citrus on the finish, it is a very pleasurable wine.
It is so good in fact, that everybody should buy a bottle. 2006’s are in stores now as the ’07 works its way into the market, released in January.
The reason everybody should buy a bottle is more practical than merely being a good wine—Hess is doing good, as well, an active participant in the so-called triple bottom line, the notion that a responsible organization addresses not just profit, but also people and the planet.
Hess is participating in 1% For the Planet, a non-profit program whereby 1% of all revenue from sales of the Monterey Chardonnay in the month of March is donated to Hess selected environmental programs that are a part of the 1% plan.
In simple terms, 1% For the planet is like the United Way, with a focus on environmental causes as opposed to community based social causes.
Last year, the Napa Land Trust was the cause selected to receive the 1% of Hess sales revenues.
In addition, Hess is Napa Green certified for both land and winery, a designation administered by the Napa Valley Vintners association, and they are a member of the Bay Area Green Business Program.
My lesson learned? Perception is not always reality. Hess (and many other large production wines) does not deserve my consumer neglect just because they can be found in national distribution – it is frequently those wineries with resources that take on leadership roles that help create a rising tide for all wineries.
So, there you have it. I’ve have been converted again—support a company that supports the triple bottom line, and makes some damn fine wine, too, regardless of size.
Posted in, Good Grape Daily: Pomace & Lees. Permalink | Comments (4) |
Guilty as charged.
I continually kick my own ass re: my big box snobbery.
I think for a lot of us, it has roots in being repeatedly burnt on higher-end big box juice. Where we paid up for the name and marketing, but totally struck out on value and distinction.
There are a ton of big box QPRs out there. During the WBC, I was shocked by how well the Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc drank. That stuff is everywhere.
But on the flip side, a lot of people want a deeper connection with their juice (even if it is imaginary!) We want to feel closer to the land, producers,and the whole process (agricultural and business). The big box producers often give none of the geeks the needed warm and fuzzies and appear more like the Folgers of wine.
So it is the issue of what truly matters— What is actually in the glass? Or how did it get there / who put it there?
As I read Jeff’s post, I couldn’t help the desire to comment and congratulate him on bringing the “triple bottom line” to the forefront of “reasons to buy wine.” Thanks, Jeff! While drinkability, AKA quality, does come into the game as well, this relatively new measure is one that I hope grows in consumer’s decision making process… actually, it’s happening already. Yay! And, there are a number of good wines out there to choose from, including the Hess Monterey Chard. It’s now up to wineries to honestly communicate about what they are doing to protect the planet and its inhabitants, while continuing to make good wine.
Thanks for the comments, gents.
Greg - I will grant you that the PH is high. Generally speaking, for me, I find whites more pleasing if they are “grocery” wines. CA and Aussie are frequently soft and one-dimensional.
Dirty - thanks for stopping by. I think we’ll be talking about big/small wine for decades in the future.
Robert—Nice to have you swing by the site. Thanks. Viva la Rodney Strong. A larg(er) producer, like Beringer, that drives a ton of quality at all price points!
Jeff
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The main issue with “grocery store” wines is boredom. I’d rather be offended by a wine than bored with it. I took a quick look at the base-level Hess Cabernet Sauvignon on the website and the pH is an astoundingly high 3.97. While this level of deficient acidity may or may not classify as a flaw, I’d be 95% certain that this wine will taste very soft and lack a backbone. To my palate, wines like these are pretty dull.
“Grocery store” wines do have some positives. Rarely are they overly alcoholic or heavily extracted. Maybe the grapes are from less “prime” territory where over-ripeness is hard to achieve or they de-alc. But deficient acidity, residual sugar and heavy-handed oaking are all common flaws I’ve found in “grocery store” wines. Very rarely have I encountered off aromas or bitter flavors in mass distributed wines, and they often have a sense of balance. But the excessive confection and sterile filtering tends to leave them one-dimensional. It seems like the vast majority of these wines aim to be easy for anyone to drink and avert any risk.