June 14 2009
Sports pundits, newspaper columnists, talk radio jocks and the entire ESPN organization LOVE controversy in their realm of coverage – it virtually ensures that there is something interesting to write and/or talk about on a regular basis.
“Kobe is the greatest player in the game.”
“No, Lebron is the best, and the more complete player.”
“Blessedly, Brett Favre should stay retired.”
“Are you crazy, the chance to watch a Hall of Famer like Brett one more time is the blessing.”
The two drama-inducing sides of the sports coin and the ensuing pop analysis fuel more than a few news cycles; in fact they save sports from being the equivalent of the church newsletter, all events and benign fecund fun, drama not included.
Wine is no different. Though we may not have the personalities that define the conversation, we have the issues that re-occur time after time, acting as a lightning rod for as much controversy as wine folks can muster up.
With that in mind, here are the first five of the 10 issues, in no certain order, that, without passionate side-taking, would render the wine world the equivalent of the church picnic, all mustard potato salad, that one weird dish nobody eats, bad volleyball, polite small talk and zero interest.
Go ahead, and pick your side.
Wine Competitions
Wine competition interest by wineries is a product of the inability to get coverage (i.e. points) in the wine magazines. Say what you will, but medals in competition validate quality for consumers. Having blind reviews by a panel of judges is as good of a measurement tool as any. They’re good for wineries and good for consumers.
Or
Wine competitions are ridiculous – have you seen some of the winners? Besides the inherent flaw of judging with judges who have no standard experience baseline, its big wines that tend to show well, and, besides, it’s judging without food. These competitions are completely bogus.
Wine Magazines
Today’s wine magazines and content are a reflection of the interest that consumers and advertisers have in wine: lifestyle, luxury, aspiration and wine reviews. They serve an audience and do it well.
Or
Today’s wine magazines suck. They speak to a mythical audience segment that doesn’t exist, and if it does exist it’s a doctor that has a cellar and more money than wine sense. Give me a magazine that actually is appealing to somebody that has wine chops, but a household income lower than $250K.
Restaurant wine prices
Restaurant wine prices are a reflection of the costs that go into running a dining establishment. Without the built-in margin your entrée would be $45 instead of $30 and you’d use paper napkins instead of fresh linen. Forget about that fresh daisy on your table …
Or
When are these restaurants going to learn – if wine prices didn’t gouge you more people would be more inclined to buy a bottle regularly therefore increasing overall sales. Nowadays, I refuse to buy a bottle of wine, I’d rather hand over my ATM card to the owner so he can take out $40 bucks and put it in his pocket. Restaurants would easily make up the margin based on volume of sales with reasonable pricing.
Parker’s Palate
It’s a fact. I know winemakers that tailor their wines for Parker – and they’re big, rich, extracted, high in alcohol and completely undrinkable with a meal. Kool-aid for adult kids.
Or
This whole Parker’s palate thing has gotten blown way out of proportion. Do an analysis of his scores and they have been consistent with normal statistical variance over the years. It’s mostly wineries that haven’t been reviewed him that are creating wines that THEY THINK he’ll like, and, for the most part, those folks continue to be on the outside looking in, perpetuating a myth.
Corporate vs. Artisanal Wine
Big wine companies are the death knell of the U.S. wine industry. Before long, we’ll be swimming in oceans of unremarkable, cheap wine similar to the crap the Aussies have been exporting to us over the course of the last 10 years, if we aren’t already.
Not only that, but with many family-owned wineries on the verge of selling off over the next 15 years, we stand a chance of losing all that is remarkable about passionate winemaking where cases are counted by the pallet and not the truckload.
Or
This whole corporate wine thing is a big whine. The top 30 wine companies in the country already represent over 90 percent of the domestic market by volume. Am I supposed to worry about that percentage increasing from 90 to 93 percent in the next couple of years?
It doesn’t seem to daunt new wineries from starting – there are over 6000 of them now, and most of them are going after the same 2% of the wine buying public that buys wine over $25. Corporate wine isn’t to blame here, the market share already exists. What hasn’t happened yet is business Darwinism because these new wineries are launching without a clear articulation of how they are going to be successful.
Add a comment, based on which side of the issue you fall. The balance of the Top 10 items that keep wine enthusiasts interested include, “100 point ratings,” “direct shipping” and more.
Posted in, Good Grape Daily: Pomace & Lees. Permalink | Comments (9) |
WOW. Incredible post. Really well done. Any interest in publishing it, and helping us continue to create a magazine that hopefully doesn’t just appeal to doctors with extensive wine cellars? Let’s talk over e-mail! I’m into it!
Jeff,
I’m not sure that “Big wine companies are the death knell of the U.S. wine industry.” In order to make wine that the vast majority of Americans drink, you have to make a lot of it and you have to live on smaller margins. That’s a job for big wine companies. We’ve been hearing how consolidation will limit choices. Yes, there has been consolidation and big companies get bigger, but there has never been more choice for those that want the “artisan” touch.
Brilliant post!
Hey my friend, you forgot:
Direct sales vs Traditional 3 Tier Sales
Old World vs New World
User reviews vs professional reviews
On premise brand building vs off premise brand building
and a whole lot more that I need to take the time to write.
Thanks for all of the comments!
Indeed, there is a part II to this post that will include Direct, and Old World vs. New World.
User v. Professional reviews is a good one and one that I think will get covered in another category.
The rest of the piece tomorrow ...
As always, thanks for reading, all! I appreciate it!
Oooh…my kinda post, Jeff.
I love a great black-and-white choices rundown since it (hopefully) makes people realize that they’re a blander shade of gray rather than a die-hard monochrome. (Monochromatic?)
This if very Fox News or [insert 24-hour cable channel all-or-nothing-to-drum-up-ratings “news analysis” show here]...but infinitely more interesting, of course, because it’s about the wine industry. 
fine post - as an aside, decanter is a fine magazine for wine.
Sensationalizing wine takes quite the stretch and I like that you’ve brought these issues to light in this manner. Kudos! The format reminds me of something Hannity & Colmes would do. Maybe a video segment along those lines would be fun.
I have to say that the stereotype of doctor with an extensive cellar and lack of wine knowledge is just not true. I have several doctor friends who do have extensive cellars and peruse wine mags but have also taken the time to learn about what they’re buying beyond what the wine mags tell them. Many have great relationships with wineries that make wines I could never afford. Some of my finest tasting experiences have been with my doctor friends.
One thing you forgot to mention along with restaurant wine prices is corkage fees. Restaurants have gotten ridiculous in their corkage, especially places that have rather limited selections or outrageous wine list prices. I must hand it to places that have taken the high road and offer half-price bottle nights. Great idea for slow Tuesday nights that will keep me coming back.
I’m excited that Gen-Y has taken a keener interest in wine. The elitist attitude of wine connoisseurs is exactly what turns away many novice wine drinkers. I don’t think that wineries finding ways to appeal to the shorter-attention-span crowds will necessarily degrade wine’s distinction or even alienate their established customers. Making wine more accessible to Gen-Y will also open up wine to scores of Gen-X and Boomers who are *still* mystified and intimidated by wine.
And finally, it’s about time our antiquated alcohol laws are rewritten for the 21st century. Who are they really protecting besides the special interest groups in the states that regulate the most? Certainly not teenagers who have more accessibility to alcohol than to good parenting. Limiting online wine sales won’t stem the flow of alcohol to our youth any more than promises of abstinence will prevent teen pregnancies.
I hope this sparks some more discussion about these issues. Thanks again, Jeff, for your insight.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-No Derivative Works 3.0 Unported License
Design by The Blog Studio
Print
This post brought to you by the left and right shoulders of Jeff. In all seriousness, I wish more people were able to take the time to look at both sides of an argument before firmly rooting themselves as the opposition to another. In each of these cases you present a solid case that someone would take from that stance. Who’s right or wrong—that’s up for debate and, of course, will be very much debated.