July 5 2008
Verge Wine Cellars released their first vintage in March of this year, a ’06 Dry Creek Syrah, and already they are in the top 5% of wine producers in the country, in my opinion.
Why am I tossing out the lofty platitudes for an unproven winery with a single varietal of a single wine from a single vintage?
A winery that comes out of the gate as fully conceived, full of conviction and put-together as the guys at Verge are, in my mind, are staring at nothing but green pastures and blue skies for their future.
Simply, most people do not know who they are, or what they want to be. Drawing a line in the sand and saying, “This is what we’re about” is completely refreshing.
Already named to a San Francisco Chronicle watch list for up and coming wineries, there is a lot to like with Verge.
They know what they believe in regarding the grapes, how they plan to sell their wine, with a cohesive story, and they utilize the best of new marketing tactics without it devolving into a distraction.
Take this as an example of where the guys at Verge are coming from and let it be noted that anybody that comes out of the gate with a Manifesto is a kindred spirit to Good Grape:
Syrah Manifesto
Let it henceforth be known to all mankind and future generations of winemakers, grape growers, vinophiles, wine adventurers, sommeliers, wine buyers, modern day rumrunners, moonshiners and all other discerning tipplers and non-teetotalers that:
Syrah, long in the shadow of the evil twins of greed and false devotion, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, is hereby declared the world’s finest grape varietal with no second or equal.
Syrah, a vigorous vine indeed, must suffer and strain to produce great wines but can only do so when planted far from the likes of the fertile valley.
Syrah, when found on the outlying tracts of viticultural areas, in the hills, off the back roads, next to forests and the natural habitats of insects, mammals and fowl, on the fringe, is supremely good.
Syrah, when grown organically or biodynamically in this type of place, is intrinsically superior. Why continue the use of harmful agrichemicals?
Syrah is most unique and expressive when made by small producers who seek out distinctive vineyard sources and employ small-scale, minimalist winemaking techniques.
Syrah, grown for over thirty years in California, must be pushed past mediocrity to excellence by like-minded wineries and growers.
Verge Wine Cellars will combine right site, right vineyard, right winemaking and right mind, to produce expressive, age-worthy Syrah.
Verge Wine Cellars will follow the grand traditions of our winemaking brethren and sisters from the granite hills of Hermitage to the eastern slopes of the Barossa Range to the iconoclastic Rangers here in California. Never quit.
LONG VINIFY SYRAH!
We caught up with Verge Co-owner, Jay Kell, for our 20 “Not So Penetrating Questions.” Here is what he had to say (and remember to leave a comment and take a guess at which one of the last three answers in question 20 is an artful dodge on the truth).
Good Grape: Which of the Seven Deadly Sins are you most guilty of?
Jay Kell/Verge: Gluttony would be right up there. Mostly Laute and Forente. I tend to go right for the caviar cart.
Good Grape: What is your biggest pet peeve?
Jay Kell/Verge: Impatience. I’m also a big believer in promptly returning phone calls and emails. It’s part of what keeps the lights on in any business.
Good Grape: What is on your nightstand?
Jay Kell/Verge:
Just read: Tobias Wolff “Old School”
Just starting: Michael Ondaatje “Divisidero”
In between: Daniel Imhoff “Farming with the Wild”
Constantly: Cookbooks
Good Grape: What is in your refrigerator or pantry that you would not openly admit?
Jay Kell/Verge: Crisco Vegetable Shortening. Always a standby when lard is not availble.
Good Grape: What do you drink when you are not drinking wine?
Jay Kell/Verge: Water, Guinness, Bourbon. Is there anything more?
Good Grape: What type of music or radio station is played most often in your car?
Jay Kell/Verge: I am constantly rocking my good buddy Hayes Carll. Mostly R.L. Burnside, Dead Prez, The Roots, Grant Green, David Grisman, Peter Tosh.
Good Grape: In what era would you live if you transport yourself?
Jay Kell/Verge: Turn of the 20th century Graz, Austria.
Good Grape: What is the best wine-related book you have read?
Jay Kell/Verge: Like many people out there, I was inspired from the beginning of my wine career by Kermit Lynch’s “Adventures on the Wine Route”. I also like Jancis Robinson’s books
Good Grape: What is your favorite movie genre?
Jay Kell/Verge: Is Caddyshack or any other Bill Murray movie a genre?
Good Grape: Is your desk messy or organized?
Jay Kell/Verge: Papers neatly piled but I just barely make the Type A cut.
Good Grape: Are you always early or terminally late?
Jay Kell/Verge: First to arrive, last to leave.
Good Grape: Do you read the comics in the newspaper? If so, what is your favorite comic?
Jay Kell/Verge: No newspapers except on slow and lazy coffee laced Sundays. Always checking out homestarunner.com
Good Grape: Who would you want to play you in the movie about your life?
Jay Kell/Verge: I’ll just go ahead and say Ice Cube.
Good Grape: What super-power would you most like to have, and why?
Jay Kell/Verge: Telephathy would be cool as a means to understand what goes through someone’s mind when they taste a wine.
Good Grape: You are moving and can only take three or four items with you. What do you grab?
Jay Kell/Verge: The Santa Cruz OM guitar, the old school Gibson guitar, a case of the good stuff, and the IPOD.
Good Grape: What do you do if you have a spare hour?
Jay Kell/Verge: Cook something fresh for my wife.
Good Grape: What is the name of last great restaurant you dined at?
Jay Kell/Verge: Great to me is a restaurant where the folks are kind and the food is good. Zazu in Santa Rosa last week.
Good Grape: What is your favorite ice cream flavor?
Jay Kell/Verge: Chocolate.
Good Grape: What is the best compliment you have ever received?
Jay Kell/Verge: “That was the best mint julep I ever had.”
Good Grape: “2 Truths And a Lie” – Share 3 unique things about yourself and your life, 2 of them true, 1 false, readers will guess by leaving a comment
Jay Kell/Verge:
1) I got my start in business by making handmade pasta for restaurants in Arkansas.
2) For me, a degree in German Literature was the best preparation for the wine industry.
3) Making pinot noir really gets me excited.
Posted in, Free Run: Field Notes From a Wine Life. Permalink | Comments (9) |
I learned a lot about my son, Jay with your 20 questions! What fun! He & Mike are soulfully into Verge. Mom
I met Jay at Mike’s house on the vineyard while driving back to LA from Portland. A genuine laugh and smile are signs of a good man and we shared a few of those. I drank a beer with Jay and look forward to some Verge arriving at my doorstep any day now. Great job amigo!
Wait, you’re a lot like a friend of mine 
the website is good. it’s nice to know that i won’t have to delete anymore emails that aren’t of interest but honestly, you have offered lots of useful information.
Dude.. I am not much into reading, but somehow I got to read lots of articles on your blog. Its amazing how interesting it is for me to visit you very often
Just wanted to give you a shout from the valley of the sun, great information. Much appreciated. lcd white display repair
I find it really encouraging that the guy studied German Lit. I did PPE, so there is still hope for me yet!!!
Very impressed with the knowledge you are posting here. Thanks for sharing and let us know more about new releases. hot stocks to buy today
No need to be embarrassed, I always keep some crisco on hand. It’s a necessity because, as you said, you sometimes run out of lard. Pride!
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