September 28 2009
You won’t find Clary Ranch listed in many winery guides and it’s definitely not in the romantic and quaintly charming Back Lane Wineries of Sonoma book.
Without a tasting room proper, the Clary Ranch vineyard is in Petaluma separated from the winemaking operation in Sebastopol. Neither of these locations happens to kick-up much Sonoma county wine mindshare, at least not compared to Healdsburg and the city of Sonoma where the tourists roam. However, if there was a book called, “Off the Beaten Path in Between Here and There” Clary Ranch would surely be the crown jewel listing.
In addition to the duplicity of place, I’ve never seen the Clary Ranch vineyards, and I don’t know the owner and winemaker, Paul Clary. In fact, I’ve never even talked with him.
Despite this disconnect in the most basic of wine functions in fandom – the place and the people, I know Paul Clary and I would get along famously because his work product very obviously indicates he makes wine for people like me and that alone puts our unspoken and unknown relationship on common ground, the most stable terra firma there is between producer and consumer.
The nature of our consumer affinity for things like wine, seemingly inconsequential, is an interesting sociological and cultural anthropological study. Often times, as consumers, we turn into stark raving fans based on something very visceral. Other times, we find a linkage based on a human connection or even happenstance. The basis for my growing affinity for Clary Ranch is definitely happenstance, but, regardless, it exists.
I’ve been thinking about this connection to wine after having read an interview with comedian Patton Oswalt in the music and culture magazine Paste. He said (in the context of comedians using displeasure as a comedic foil):
“Pointing out that stuff sucks is not edgy or dangerous anymore. Everyone knows what sucks. What’s better is to find something that’s amazing and hold it up.”
The nature of my indescribable connection to Clary Ranch starts off with, perhaps, the very homespun nature of the winery, if not the wine. Paul Clary acts as the vineyard manager and winemaker with just a shade over 400 cases of total production for a Pinot Noir and a Syrah. He doesn’t make a whole lot of wine and the bottles I have enjoyed seem (and taste) like a personal endeavor. Because he doesn’t have a tasting room, there is very much the proverbial, “out of the trunk of the car” sensibility—a labor of love. In addition, the wine isn’t expensive, at least not by commonly held standards dictated by miniscule production volumes and this level of quality. Their Pinot is $39.50 and their Syrah is $28. Another connection between Clary Ranch and I might be the charming and hackneyed logo and the poor wine label design that shouts “low-key,” if not “low-budget.” Or, better yet, our simpatico communion might be based on the absolute expressiveness and purity of fruit represented in his two wines (with just three vintages under the belt).
Whatever “it” is – that unmistakable connection that binds you to something immediately—Clary Ranch and Paul Clary has “it” to me. This winery is a remarkable addition to my list of wine faves.
Having received the Pinot and Syrah as winery provided samples makes me want to become a brand advocate for Clary Ranch, buying the wine in quantities to share just to ensure that Clary keeps at it under difficult circumstances in the wine business. I’m sensing that Clary Ranch won’t need my help, though … and, as Patton Oswalt indicates, there’s nothing wrong with finding something that’s amazing and holding it up … amazing this wine is … perhaps my most enthusiastic recommendation ever … the Syrah is very good, but for the purposes of this post, I’m focusing on the Pinot.
2006 Clary Ranch Pinot Noir
Price: $39.50
My rating: 93/100
Tasting Note: Drinking this wine is like describing a marshmallow to somebody who’s never had one.
Utterly fruit forward, but earthy, this wine is very elegant and restrained. It’s almost ethereal given its body, but rubenesque in the mouth—a farm daughter who dances ballet. Crystalline and translucent ruby in the glass, the nose gives bright cherry juice, mushroom and rose petals with slight, fresh beet juice.
The palate offers dusty Dr. Pepper, beet juice, fresh rhubarb and tinges of blackberry with a lively acidity.
The finish gives cherry, plum, dark chocolate and hints of sage with a lingering finish that begs for food.
It’s a stunning wine with amazing purity; it will surprise and delight wine lovers who think California Pinot is on the road to “big and extracted” hell. Hell, it will surprise and delight any wine lover, Old or New World. Highly recommended.
Posted in, Good Grape Wine Reviews. Permalink | Comments (3) |
I’ve had the pleasure of tasting both the 2006 and 2004 vintages of Paul’s Pinot Noir and I thought they were both outstanding. The 2004 was a bigger wine and has these wonderful tobacco aromas that I’ve noticed each time I’ve tried it. The 2006 seems more elegant. The 2 wines, tasted side by side, show what a gifted grower and wine maker he is.
Great to see you featuring Clary Ranch wines here. Really interesting to see another opinion on these fine wines.
Clary Ranch Pinot Noir - a true delight to the palate
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I really liked that quote from Patton Oswalt. Although I would argue that holding up something amazing isn’t necessarily edgy or dangerous either. However, it is contrarian and that can do a lot for you in comedy.