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January 19 2010
Trader Joe’s has earned a national reputation as a food and wine marauder, pillaging the culinary corners of the world to deliver top value to consumers. Their foodstuffs are reliably good, and this makes the store a good bet for low-risk experimentation. Dried hibiscus flower? Yup, it’s good. Arrabbiata sauce. Yup, that’s good, too. When I’ve found something I didn’t like at Trader Joe’s I assumed it was my taste buds and not the product itself. Yet, there seems to be a certain nefarious underbelly to the well-earned Trader Joe’s reputation when it comes to the wine aisle.
Recently, I lamented many of the Trader Joe’s private label wines as being deficient in at least one way – acid was soft, tannins were hard, fruit was muted, finish was short, etc. I suggested that consumers conduct their own kitchen sink blending experiment because many Trader Joe wines are one component away from being a fantastic bargain for the dollar. That Napa Cab for $13 could actually approximate a $45 dollar bottle if it had some heft in the mid-palate. And, as I noted in that column, this sensibility isn’t really too far from the Trader Joe’s ethos where everything looks like a bargain individually, even if it takes six other things to accompany the Thai green curry simmer sauce to make a whole dish.
Despite disappointment in Trader Joe’s wine aisle, I recently found three of my favorite—and usually very expensive— Italian varietals all priced under $17 I picked up a bottle of each, curious what a $17 Barolo, a $15 Barbaresco and a $14 Amarone tasted like—particularly given these Wine-Searcher averages by state:
2005 Barolo
California price average: $90
New York price average: $76
Indiana price average: $77
Coast-to-coast three state average: $81
2005 Barbaresco
California price average: $154
New York price average: $126
Indiana price average: $61
Coast-to-coast three state average: $114
2006 Amarone
California price average: $37
New York price average: $46
Indiana price average: $33
Coast-to-coast three state average: $39
How bad could the wines be especially when enjoying savings of $64 for the Barolo, $99 for the Barbaresco, and $25 for the Amarone?
Without further ado, here are my tasting notes for the Trader Joe’s wines:
2005 La Loggia Barolo: Flat cherry coke with acid and oak – tastes like Ned Beatty feels in Deliverance.
2005 La Loggia Barbaresco: Flip a coin: it’s either like cherry Vick’s cough syrup or strawberry balsamic vinegar. I can’t tell which, and I don’t want to take another sip to make the right call.
2006 Conte Di Bregonzo Amarone: Spilled Welch’s grape juice on the concrete floor of a basement after a kegger.
Each of these wines was seriously dreadful. Barely potable. “Sip, scrunch up your nose, let loose a whole body shake and dump down the drain” types of wine. And, that’s precisely the problem I have with them … and the majority of the Trader Joe’s private label wine aisle.
By any empirical measure, these wines are neither well-made nor representative of what a Barolo, Barbaresco, or Amarone should taste like—not by a long shot.
I can overlook the hundreds of thousands of cases of Charles Shaw Trader Joe’s sells every year because it is a wine without technical flaws and presumably those wine drinkers will move onto other, more expensive (and more expressive) wines. But what happens if said budding wine drinker tries a Barolo from Trader Joe’s without understanding what a Barolo (a normal, good Barolo) tastes like? They’re probably ruined for the varietal forever, or at least a good many years—particularly when a bottle of the good stuff costs at least 4X as much.
And, that’s a shame.
Sometimes a knockoff of the real thing is only that – a cheap, bad knockoff. And like that New York City sidewalk Rolex that looked good (and worked) for three weeks, a knockoff is sometimes a bitter lesson learned.
Trader Joe’s founder Joe Coloumbe once told writer Paul Franson, “We built Trader Joe’s on wine first … I tasted 100,000 wines, and most weren’t wonderful. They were submitted to us by desperate vintners.”
Unfortunately, it would seem, not much has changed. When it comes to the Trader Joe’s wine aisle, Caveat emptor. Or, as an Italian might say, “Rischio del compratore.”
January 17 2010
Odds and ends from a life lived through the prism of the wine glass …
American Wine Society
Started in 1967 and incorporated as a non-profit in 1973, the American Wine Society (AWS) is the oldest and largest consumer based wine education organization in the US and membership is open to the general public – those who have an interest in wine and wine culture.
Given the state of growth in the U.S. around wine, you might think that membership would be robust, right? You would be wrong.
In fact, you’ve heard of the American Wine Society, but it means nothing to you, right? You’re not alone. I was the same way.
Last year at this time, I joined the American Wine Society to conduct an informal one-man cultural anthropology study. I wanted to observe the effect that technology and shifting demographics might have on a legacy wine enthusiast organization.
I was hoping to see an attempt at relevancy in a world quickly becoming governed by pixels.
Based on my observations, this year I’m going to join the Grave Dancers Union. I may learn more while receiving better value for my money.
Simply, for the apocalyptic type, those who revel in the change wrought by disruptive technology like the Internet on standard ways of doing business, forget wine mainstream media, they should look to the American Wine Society and, perhaps, the Tasters Guild as Exhibit A.
Now, I don’t mention this as some sort of nihilistic, mean-spirited exercise, but rather an observation that “adapt or die” is as salient as ever. And, unfortunately, I don’t think these dusty enthusiast organizations are long for a world where content is free and networking takes place principally online, supported offline, in places other than the living rooms of Baby Boomers holding Saturday night potlucks while passing the bottle.
For the $62 dollar annual membership fee I received a handsome (and positively quaint) certificate of membership, a photocopied booklet on, “Organizing and Conducting Wine Tastings” (first printed in 1985 and then reprinted in 1994), and bi-annual (reduced from quarterly) copies of their four-color 32-page magazine – nicely designed, but skimmable in approximately 120 seconds. In other words, I received approximately $7 worth of value.
Near as I can tell, the real value of a membership to the American Wine Society has to exist with engagement in a local chapter (see also Saturday night potlucks while passing the bottle). Not that I know this first hand, but that has to be where there is *something* tangible to latch onto.
Joe Brodski, a newly elected Secretary to the American Wine Society, noted in his candidate platform much of what my observation and instincts are telling me about the relevance of the organization for anybody under the age of retirement. He said:
In order to move the AWS forward in the future, we need to better look at the next generation of potential members. The philosophy of Generation X and Y towards membership is any organization is much different than that when AWS was started and today. We have to change with that generation’s ideology whether it includes going green with e-newsletters, etc. The organization has to investigate why we are not retaining members or signing up new members and improve in those areas. In areas of larger population we need to look at demographics and fill in the pockets with a new chapter if needed.
Yet, change is going to be hard earned. In the annual P&L statement, the American Wine Society completed their fiscal year with a $68K deficit against budget with a mere 2600 members nationally (based on dividing membership income by membership fees). However, even more ponderously, in 2009 they spent $237,285 for their annual conference against conference income of $198,934, leading to a loss of over 38K. Conference expenses account for over ½ their annual budget. By contrast, they spent just $10,182 on their web site.
I’ll repeat that. They spent just $10,182 on their web site in fiscal year 2009. In 2008 they spent nary a dime on their web site and in 2007 they spent $4,582.
In that same three year period they spent $575,412 on their annual conferences.
I sent an email to Executive Director Mary Ann Coskery asking about the issue of membership demographics and relevance and she neglected to respond.
Now, I’m not that bright, but if my membership is primarily older and I want to attract a younger audience, I might not spend $575,412 on an annual conference over a three year period, marketed to my existing, dwindling membership, while spending just a little over $14K on my web site.
I won’t be renewing my membership to the American Wine Society, not because I’m a righteous, holier than thou zealot who takes philosophical stands against incompetent financial malfeasance that violates my sensibility, even though this does.
I’m not renewing because organizations like the American Wine Society, in an age of social media and connectedness, don’t offer me or anybody under the age of social security eligibility any value. And, that’s a lesson they need to learn more so than how to spend their members money as a non-profit.
January 14 2010
My Mom always told me that discretion is the better part of valor, which is why the source of this wine review will go unnamed. Trust me when I say that the below is a real review, published online in the last few days, from a deadly serious taster, with absolutely no hint of irony with the absurdity of it all.
This is not a joke, even if I want to believe it is.
To break up the turgid prose, I edited the tasting note into the florid description and then a list of all tasting descriptors used (while editing out the duplicates). All told, in one wine, this guy tasted over 78 DIFFERENT components in a tasting note that was over 600 words long.
My favorite part is the misspelling of “palate.” Oh, how I wish my “palette” could pick up 78 different components in one wine …
I also have a gift for the commenter that selects the varietal that this taster is describing. I won’t give away the gift because that will tip the varietal, but it’s a large tasting in San Francisco that is very popular.
Tasting Note from our Wine Expert:
Overall character is that of a sex loaded scarlet; endowed, jaunty and erotically scented with every part smelling and tasting provocative, flamboyant and blooming. Its gorgeous, vaunting style is burning, mantling and amorous with a(n) extravagant softness that is grandiose, exotic and pursed lipped. There is a(n) edginess, sophistication and dominating air that questions whether your palette(sic) has the true aptitude to handle the complete clutch of this much worldliness. The body is chasmal, bounteous and a little weighty. In the tasting profile you will never find the true heart of this scandalous wine so just enjoy your x-rated time together. Be aware you will be left lauding and lost when you awake.
The principle flavors change dramatically throughout the decanting process and are generally very floral
Including:
Red roses
Lavender
Geranium
Dried hibiscus flowers
Cranberry raisins
Currant jelly
Mango with skins
Red plums
Cobbler
Red cherry pie
Red apple skins
Strawberry balsamic
Raspberry iced tea
Fig jelly
Cinnamon
Orange flower water
Nutmeg
Coriander
Paprika
Star anise
Graham cracker
Sweet baking spice
Cassis
Blackberry bramble
Whole black peppercorn.
Nose
Loganberries
Mango puree and ripe skins
Mission fig paste
Añejo rum
Crushed velvet
Rosewater
Orange marmalade
Cloves
Violets
Cedar box
Grand Marnier
Cranberry baked torte
Dark spice and mineral
Espresso
Soy
Black plum
Palate at intervals after decanting (Ed. Note: duplicates from nose deleted)
Preserved fruits
Bramble
Baked red fruit pastries
Mango marmalade
Dried tobacco
Bay leaves
Cinnamon
Briar
Allspice
Mango daiquiri
Orange flower water
Cardamom
Black licorice (includes star anise, elsewhere)
Cassis paste
Orange spice
Raspberry tea
Tea leaves
Apricot
Sour cherry
Fresh pomegranate
Currant paste
Fig jelly
Blackberry bramble
Blackberry pie
Chocolate
Mineral
Black peppercorns
Perfume
Rosemary
Raspberry
S’mores
Molasses
Bittersweet dark chocolate
Coco powder
Lavender blossom honey
Breakfast tea
Strawberry preserves
What do you think? Can your palate stack up? Want to take a guess at the varietal? Please leave a comment.
January 13 2010
Wine information of all kinds wants to be free from constraint, but there is one area where legacy ways of doing business have been slow to evolve making it difficult for consumers to penetrate the veil of the unknown – restaurant wine lists.
And, while it can be quite fashionable for wine enthusiasts to lament the restaurant wine scene where mark-up’s are high, wine lists are frequently unwieldy and esoteric, and by-the-glass programs are wastelands of mediocrity, change on this front will be slow until it is regularly scrutinized and covered by dedicated media, warts and all.
If you think about it, over the course of the last 15 years, the wine industry has undergone a remarkable transformation – aside from restaurant wine, there isn’t a single niche or geographical area that isn’t competently addressed by coverage in the form of a magazine, a newsletter, a web site or a blog.
And, not only is there competent coverage in various forms, but there are also (now) blurry lines in between consumer and trade reporting. The wine business subscribes to Wine Spectator and wine consumers track industry news.
This 360 degree evolution in information consumption occurs, I should note, in all pockets of the wine landscape save for coverage of restaurant wine which is still reasonably segregated. Ronn Weigand’s Restaurant Wine, Santé and Wine Spectator’s (or, I should say, Marvin Shanken’s) Market Watch are very trade-oriented.
If a consumer reads anything about restaurant wine in a consumer-oriented magazine (Wine Spectator or Food & Wine) it’s usually a puff piece with enough stroke to make a 14-year old boy go blind. Not until the Sommelier Journal launched in 2008 was there an easily accessible wine media outlet for understanding more about wine as it relates to restaurant dining – the business of the business.
Now, of course, the restaurant scene itself is well-covered by media outlets, as well, but that focus tends to be (and rightly so) on the food. Wine and wine lists are left as an ancillary function in restaurant coverage and the coterie of review books.
This rather lengthy preamble is a lead-up to point out an interesting new business called WineChap.
If ever there was a good time, room and need for a business to focus on consumer-based informational coverage in a niche like restaurant wine and wine lists, it’s now. Why? Not necessarily because the economy is good for white table cloth restaurants, but because it’s the last niche left.
WineChap describes itself as:
… Fearlessly deliver(ing) news and reviews of restaurant wine lists in an independent quest for value, variety, and character. We spend our time poring over lists, so the only pouring you need to do is in your glass.
WineChap is a unique online resource. We provide you with access to real-time wine lists, reviews, and recommendations, and our selections cover a range of different budgets and occasions.
Huzzah to that.
Started last year by Boo Murphy, a U.K. technology entrepreneur and former food critic for Vogue magazine in the U.K., WineChap is currently covering New York, London and Hong Kong with plans to expand to Sydney and Los Angeles in the coming year, according to Murphy. The other components to the WineChap business are a “Premiere crew” service – a concierge or personal Sommelier of sorts and a private tasting and event segment.
Not to be left out, as any self-respecting business has done in the last year, WineChap also offers an iPhone application, as well.
Here’s the thing about WineChap – as much as I love the premise and stated core focus of “fearless” delivery of news and reviews of restaurant wine lists, I’m nervous that coupled with their concierge service and private events that this is a business that will thin-slice the need for objective information and journalism on restaurant wine lists into addressing the ½ of 1% of wine lovers that are global travelers and well-heeled, a sort of Robb Report for the kind of industry titan that melts an Amex by dining at Per Se before jetting off to Hong Kong.
Likewise, I’m also nervous that as a young business they’ll start to focus on where the money is coming from, which is likely to be everywhere but providing reviews of wine lists.
In my opinion, the real need is for a Zagat’s of wine lists that goes broad, reasonably deep, and completely objective.
Regardless, WinChap is an interesting business off to a fast start according to Murphy and should be another informational tool in the hands of the consumer in major markets, who, for all of the pot clanging, won’t have means to drive change with corkage, high-mark-ups and poor by-the-glass options until somebody goes the last mile in wine transparency shining a bright light into the only corner of the wine business left out of the glare of daylight.
January 11 2010
What happens when you send 10 wine-related test questions to a mobile-based question service with human guides?
You get a mixed bag of answers.
ChaCha, based in Indianapolis, IN is a human-powered, mobile text based search engine. Text any question to 242242 and moments later you’ll get an answer texted back to your mobile phone from a (presumably) human guide.
Or, if you’re interested in seeing trending topics you can go to the site and search a topic to see what kinds of questions are being searched from other users.
ChaCha is an interesting service and one that has some utility for those times when you need to settle a (wine) bar bet.
The search engine with trending topics, in particular, is a splash of cold water in the face for anybody that forgets what it’s like to be on the light side of the wine knowledge equation. Questions like, “Is Burgundy wine a dry wine” dominate.
I decided to test the service out in an attempt to give myself a secret weapon the next time my wine tasting group gets together and a stumper of a question comes up …
Question #1: Who started the phrase, “spoofulated?”
ChaCha Answer: While there is controversy about the origin of the word, most feel the term originated (with) Michael Wheeler, a NY wine personality.
Survey Says: Kind of right. This link clearly has Harmon Skurnik stepping in and taking credit, however.
Question #2: Where in the U.S. was the first commercially successful winery?
ChaCha Answer: The first commercially successful winery in the United States, founded in Cincinnati, Ohio in the mid-1830s by Nicholas Longworth
Survey Says: Many people will say that the first commercially successful winery was in Vevay, Indiana around 1807, but Wikipedia lists the same answer given by ChaCha.
Question #3: What does a “hogshead” refer to in wine?
ChaCha Answer: A hogshead is two liquid barrels or 14,653 cubic inches
Survey says: This is correct, I think, and more accurate than not as “hogshead” is technically a volume term
Question #4: Where is the newest U.S. wine appellation?
ChaCha Answer: With regards to wine labels, appellation refers to the place where the grapes are grown
Survey says: They bombed this question and I asked it three different times. Calistoga was nowhere near the answer for any of the inquiries.
Question #5: Who is the best U.S. wine critic?
ChaCha Answer: Robert Parker is undoubtedly the world’s most influential wine critic, who happens to be an American. His newsletter, The Wine Advocate, has had an influence on the wine buying habits of serious American consumers
Survey says: Decanter Magazine may argue this point, but who can argue its inherent truth? When you search Google for, “who is the best U.S. wine critic?” eRobertParker.com comes up as the first listing.
Question #6: What does Genesis 9:20 say?
ChaCha Answer: “Noah, a man of the soil, proceeded to plant a vineyard”
Survey says: Pretty much spot on, depending on which version of the Bible you read.
Question: #7: How many acres of Burger wine grapes are planted in California?
ChaCha Answer: 500 acres of Burger wine grapes are planted (in) California vineyards
Survey says: Very wrong according to USDA totals, accurate from 2008 – correct answer, as I found it, is 1247 acres.
Question #8: In what city does wine expert Doug Frost live?
ChaCha Answer: Doug Frost is a Kansas City author who writes and lectures about wine, beer and spirits.
Survey says: Correct.
Question #9: What is the Italian translation for, “Celebrate the Good Grape?”
ChaCha Answer: “Celebrate the Good Grape” translates to “Celebrare l’uva buona” in Italian.
Survey Says: Close, but incorrect according to my translations. Their translation reads, “Celebrate good grapes.” If translated correctly it should be, “Celebri la buona uva” for “Celebrate the Good Grape.”
Overall, if you find yourself in a bar (or with your tasting group) kibitzing about the origin of the word “bung” or the purpose of “punts” in wine bottles, you could do worse than using ChaCha, but I wouldn’t make a bold, “bet the Petrus” bottle on the accuracy of the answer. Still, it’s better than carrying around a nine pound copy of, “The Oxford Companion to Wine.”
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