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June 11 2008
Ah, my love affair with my wine mistress. She is sweet, but dryly intriguing, well-perfumed, mercurial with subtly and power; sometimes fleshy, but always with pleasant dimension.
I love Rhone whites and I particularly love my mistress Viognier which makes this Wine Blogging Wednesday all the more fun.
And, fun though it may be, my luck in picking wines for Wine Blogging Wednesday is not nearly as good as Viognier generally is.
I picked up an inexpensive Argentinean that proved to be a clunker. Next time, I’ll heed my own advice, as below.
June 10 2008
Have you ever wondered why the writers of “Sideways” chose Merlot as the unfortunate benefactor of a pop culture phenomenon?
I think I have unraveled the mystery.
As Miles famously ranted in the movie, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any f—Merlot.”
Almost instantaneously, a nation of wine drinkers set down their glass.
Aside from the small inconsistency of Miles’ prized wine being a Merlot-based Chateau Cheval Blanc, the thing that I’ve wondered most is why Merlot? Why not choose Zinfandel or Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay or any number of other varietals?
Based on the conversation I had this past weekend, I think I have the essential truth, or at least the 6th hand anecdotal, twisted truth. Paul Harvey might not say, “Now you know the rest of the story.” He might, however, say, “now you know the gossipy back-alley truth,” though.
I went to a wine tasting on Saturday with some friends at Lush Wine & Spirits in Chicago. Lush specializes in carrying wines that are not carried anywhere else in Chicago.
As a side note, the recent changes in Illinois law that allows a retailer to buy Direct-to-Trade should be a boon for Lush.
As an additional side note, I was completely dumbstruck when Twisted Oak’s “The Spaniard” was a part of our tasting. Apparently, Twisted Oak and the folks at Lush are fast friends.
As a third side note, you want to talk about an ego boost: The person that conducted our wine tasting reads my site.
All that aside, the store is what a wine shop should be, or at least what I would do if I had a wine shop—obscure, high-end bottles in a point’s free environment.
One of the winery’s Lush carries is Carhartt. The winery, located in the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County, is a small producer with a strikingly distinctive label. With six varietals in the wine shop, Carhartt stood out based on variety, moreso than any other winery present in the store.
Carhartt is a well-noted winery with some very positive accolades to their credit. Somewhere in the family of the same folks that bring working class folks the Carhartt line of clothing, these guys are cattle ranchers turned vintners and their flagship wine is Merlot. It is their bread and butter.
Supposedly, when the production team for Sideways was scouting out locations for the movie, they stopped by Carhartt with a very strong desire to use the Carhartt location.
The Carhartt folks thought about it, thought about it some more and said, “no thanks, we don’t want you to film at our winery.”
The film people said, “But, we’re from Hollywood. Think about the fame that will come to your winery.”
And, the Carhartt’s still said, “no.” They wanted to privately tend to their 10 acres of vines and their flagship Merlot.
In a bit insider’s upshot, the writers famously wrote in the famous derision towards Merlot as a shot at the winery that turned them down.
Is this true? Hell, I have no idea, but the story went over well when Erin our tasting hostess was schmoozing with us—and it went over especially well after hording the bottle of El Jefe’s The Spaniard for my sixth generous pour.
My review of the 2003 Carhartt Merlot can be found here.
June 6 2008
I had an “ah-ha” moment the other day about the allure of wine as a rock in the stream of life.
First, I should say that I have never understood the staunch critics of progress in wine. To me, it just never made sense. You have to keep up with the times. Like a shark, if you are not constantly in motion moving forward, than you die.
But, a recent turn of events caused me to take a moment and look contemplatively, a brief respite from a life on the go, a life that isn’t that different from millions of other people, our days simply markers in a rush of a turn of events.
One of the many memories that I hold dear is a childhood spent at my family’s rustic lake cottage in NE Indiana.
When I say “rustic” I mean, rustic—outhouse, pump well for running water and the whole bit. The cottage was a relic from the 1920’s, stick frame, no foundation, two-bedroom shotgun-style place. In fact, many of the furnishings that I grew up laying about on were from the sale of the place to my grandparents in the 1940’s. They are not antiques if you use them, that is for sure.
Despite the lack of modern day amenities, I have some of the fondest (and priceless) memories from the lake—meals full of summer harvest vegetables, fishing for bluegills with my Grandpa, Dad and brother, swimming, running and around and just being a kid; playing innocent games with water and empty dish soap containers, not toys from Target, before rushing inside to eat the other half pan of brownies.
Ah, those are sweet memories, every single one of them. It was a childhood of abundance.
However, over the course of the last 15 years or so the cottage fell into a state of disrepair that was not recoverable. Time and age had taken its toll, very similar to the peaking of a wine. It had been on a steady decline for a number of years prior, but was still serviceable and still enjoyable. The view, the location and the calmness making up for what was not present in a physical state.
Then, one summer, it just kind of died—not literally, but figuratively, in terms of its usefulness.
After laying relatively dormant for a good number of years, my mother very graciously passed the deed to the cottage down to my brother, sister and me, leaving the fate of the cottage in our hands—good, bad or indifferent. After much contemplation, consideration and teeth gnashing, we decided to tear down the cottage that had been in my family for the last 60 + years and build anew—not a small decision, particularly when my grandmother, who is 99, is still around—the matriarch of a family that is hidebound by tradition. There is a real need to be respectful to the past.
That said, this past Memorial Day, my Mom, brother, sister and I moved into the new cottage, Lake House. It is a three bedroom with two full baths, stainless steel appliances and all of the modern amenities you could want, with plenty of room for all.
What a blessing, what a luxury.
However, it was not until the “golden hour,” the weekend of the move, when the sun was setting, others were out for a boat ride, and I watched the sun fade visibly in front of me, that I realized that the mystery with wine is not flavor profiles, technology, old ways versus new ways, or any other issue; it is the simple fact that for so many millions of people wine is their marker of passing time.
At that moment, at approximately 8:48 pm on May 24, 2008, as memories washed over me, each with a timeline associated with it rooted in the new place that I was, that used to be really old, I realized that traditionalists in wine are traditionalists because they don’t have a cottage, they have a winery, or an affinity for a sensibility from a winery.
As I was rooted in calm, glass of wine in hand, I realized what exactly the lake meant to me and I realized that this human need, this desire to have a rock in the stream, a sense of rooted-ness denoted by place, hidebound by tradition, was unique to every single one of us.
Wine is a time marker, the thing that denotes the eloquence of passing time.
I understood. And, the next Monday I went to buy some French wine.
June 4 2008
Now I know how Brian Epstein felt when he discovered the Beatles.
Last night I shared a bottle (or four) with the future of wine and a notable local food blogger, Renee from Feed Me/Drink Me. I am not sure if the potential “Future of Wine” will be “bigger than Elvis” as Epstein promised the Beatles, but I have a hunch he will soon be a recognizable name nationally, breaking free from “just” a sterling reputation amongst his peers and becoming something of a national figure amongst wine consumers.
Being a great Sommelier, or even a great wine expert for a distributor, is often a thankless job, the measure being you take less guff from your customer. However, we’ve seen trends over the last several years that indicate that Sommeliers, and, likely, those that have the designate as a Master Sommelier, are increasing their level of public awareness to rock star levels. Simply, there is a real hunger for folks that are wine experts that appeal to varying demographic segments, as wine becomes more of a melting pot.
If I did meet the future of wine, then he goes by the very normal sounding name of Arthur Black and he works for a distributor, National Wine & Spirits, in Indianapolis. Arthur is 30 years old, bench presses 400 pounds, has tattoos on either bicep, commands a room when he walks in, can tell you acreage and soil type for specific chateau’s in Bordeaux, has a palate that would stop Laube or Parker dead in their tracks and he is a candidate to become the 125th Master Sommelier in the world in February of 2009, a test not to be taken likely and a group of professionals that, collectively, represent very rarefied air in the world of wine. Matter of fact, if I’m going to draw the analogy of the Beatles to Arthur, than Master Somm’s might very well be the Jimi Hendrix’ of the wine world, a group of folks so elite in their training as to be untouchable. Nobody assails Jimi’s guitar prowess or mythology, not even the Beatles.
To wit, more people have ascended the Himalayans than have passed the Master Sommelier test. Think about that and now think about the number of wine lovers versus the # of mountain climbers. It’s a distinct group. However, despite the dedication and skill it takes to become an MS, Arthur stressed the importance of remembering to share wine and spirits knowledge and expertise and not flaunt it; after all, a Sommelier is first and foremost a servant, whose duties are ultimately to heighten the dining experience and engage the guest with enthusiasm and humility. Despite Arthur’s successes, including his most recent victory of winning the title of 2008 Best Young Sommelier Champion earlier this year in Vegas, he maintains a sort of relaxed, easy going, Midwestern normalcy, making his passion for his craft clear and approachable.
After sitting for the Master Sommelier exam, no gimme of a pass for Arthur, he is planning on going for his Master of Wine. This is akin to Jimi Hendrix having a love child with John Lennon and spawning the vinous equivalent of a DaVinci who also writes melodies and plays lead guitar, if I can mix metaphors. Less than five people in the world hold both the Master Sommelier and the Master of Wine designations. If I had to, I would not bet against Arthur. In fact, if Vegas were handicapping, I would lay the odds.
Despite you never having heard of one Arthur Black, I expect that to change in the future.
As soon as he gets out of his intense period of study, I fully anticipate Arthur using some form of blogging (written or video) and some Social Media to introduce himself to the larger world of wine. Given my interaction with him, I think he would immediately jet to the top of the wine blogging heap on his way to a publishing deal, consulting contracts and all of the associated benefits that go along with being in the top 1% of the wine world, with charisma to spare.
Where others who are young, dynamic, and emerging in the wine world are getting by on cult of personality shtick, Arthur brings genuine authenticity to the table, alongside measurable chops.
I can’t tell you exactly where Arthur’s nom de plume, Arturo de Negro, came from, but it was wrapped up in a good story, something he does in a completely unassuming, but commanding kind of way, a trait that undoubtedly serves him well in his regionally based educational role with his employer.
In fact, in the haze of a Sancerre, Priorat, and a Riesling, I think I have forgotten most of the stories Arthur shared. Fortunately, I pinned him down for an interview, which I got in writing.
A special guest to the usual winemaker interviews, Arthur Black, the future of wine, answers our 20 Penetrating Questions for a Wine Craftsman Pro.
Good Grape: Which of the Seven Deadly Sins are you most guilty of?
Arthur: Definitely gluttony - almost to the point of a barbarism. Everything in excess! Food, wine, work, leisure, studies, fitness, and the lists go on. I know balance is the key to life, but for every instance of moderation, discipline, and restraint in my life, there are an equal number of absolutely bloody demonstrations of excess. Ironically, I guess there is balance there.
Good Grape: What is your biggest pet peeve?
Arthur: There are two of them and they most often overlap. The first one is the pretentious wine prick that knows only enough to be dangerous and continuously drops names and makes other people who might not be that wine savvy uncomfortable. These people turn my answer to number one into wrath and I absolutely love shutting these people down and putting them in their place. I would argue that one of my major motivations for studying as hard as I do is to always know the correct answer so when one of these jack@!&/*# tries to intimidate or BS a young or emerging wine and food consumer, I can put them in their place.
My other biggest pet peeve is people that profile and stereotype. You know, if you’re from the Mid West, then you are a hillbilly, if you like chicken wings then you can’t appreciate foie gras, bone marrow, or the beauty of white truffles, or if you have tattoos then you’re low rent or unprofessional. One should never read a book by its cover.
Good Grape: What is on your nightstand?
Arthur: Frank Herbert’s Dune, Aronson’s Jesus and Lao Tzu, and laminated wine maps (in case I spill something on them)
Good Grape: What is in your refrigerator or pantry that you wouldn’t openly admit?
Arthur: Veggie burgers. I’m a proud carnivore, that usually pokes fun at vegetarians (lightly and totally in jest, I’d never go as far as submitting a vegetarian to watching a lobster puppet show or frog leg chorus line at the dinner table), but the burgers are low in caloric intake and represent that slight percentage of moderation I mentioned in my answer to question #1.
Good Grape: What do you drink when you’re not drinking wine?
Arthur: Water in the morning, followed by coffee, followed by espresso, followed by water, then back to wine, and, on a good night, Fernet Branca (aaaahhhhhhggggg!!!!! In my best Homer Simpson voice).
Good Grape: What type of music or radio station is played most often in your car?
Arthur: Sometimes talk radio, but I don’t really listen to the radio while driving because most everything on the airwaves is a continuous cycle of SUCK. Actually, I use my driving time in a very productive and responsible way; I look at flash cards, make phone calls, eat, do the 7 minute abs tape in rotation, and practice origami (I do a killer Elvis and I’m working on Kermit the frog). So, I’m lying about the abs and origami thing. If I am listening to a CD or have my Ipod plugged in, it ranges from Tool to Rachmaninoff to the musical score of Conan the Barbarian.
Good Grape: In what era would you live if you transport yourself?
Arthur: 17th century French Court Society, assuming of course that I would be a member of court and would have maidens to give me baths, or the Hyborian age, assuming of course, that I would be Conan and could knock out camels with a single punch (hey vegetarians, don’t take that as I’ve actually punched a camel in real life, or at least I don’t remembering ever punching a camel – it’s a joke)
Good Grape: What is the best wine-related book you’ve read?
Arthur: I don’t really read wine-related books in the way of wine stories or winemaker autobiographers, but for more leisurely wine readers, Wine and War by Donald and Petie Kladstrup is an entertaining book that covers the tribulations of vineyards, wineries, wine, etc. of Europe during WWII. Sadly, I actually take pleasure in more reference and data oriented texts. When I found the exact percentages, numbers, and allowances, of the Cadastro (a 12 point criteria in the Duoro that determines the Beneficio or amount of wine a winery is allowed to make) I was in heaven. There are so many texts that cover specific genres, but Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion is sort of the wine reference bible. I’m currently reading The Science of Wine by Jamie Goode, which is “rock star” status for wine science.
Good Grape: What is your favorite movie genre?
Arthur: Somewhere between movies like Babette’s Feast and movies with Zombies. Actually, I’m a “sucker” for vampire movies!
Good Grape: Is your desk messy or organized?
Arthur: Messy 29 days of the month and then spotless. The papers, flash cards, bills, calendars, and business cards are sort of like tattoos; I wake up and there are more of them and they’re all over the place!
Good Grape: Are you always early or terminally late?
Arthur: Surprisingly right on time for appointments, but notoriously late getting into the office.
Good Grape: Do you read the comics in the newspaper? If so, what’s your favorite comic?
Arthur: I don’t read the newspaper. Seems like a bunch of nothing - political spin, lies, and entertainment news, which is a complete waste of my time, attention, and it’s not like I have the brain power to waste on what seems pointless. But, if I did read the paper, I’m sure the comics would be the most intellectually stimulating.
Good Grape: Who would you want to play you in the movie about your life?
Arthur: Maybe Russell Crowe, but I really wouldn’t care as long as my girlfriend in the movie would be Scarlett Johanssen. Since Erica, my significant other, is partial to Johnny Depp, she would probably like for him to play my part.
Good Grape: What super-power would you most like to have, and why?
Arthur: X-ray vision would be cool, for obvious reasons, but with the good comes the bad and I’d rather not see really ugly people naked. Telekinesis would also be an option because I could make anyone do whatever I wanted. But, in the movie X-Men, there is a smoking hot, multi-colored mutant chick that can turn into other people and use their powers, so……with those chops I could have anyone’s power whenever I wanted. I’d probably spend most days as Wolverine because I can relate to him and he kinda had a thing with the other hot mutant chick in the movie.
Good Grape: You are moving and can only take three or four articles you want to take with you. What would you grab?
Arthur: Dog, wine, flash cards, and clothes.
Good Grape: What do you do if you have a spare hour?
Arthur: Usually work out to sweat out the day, stress, and previous night’s wine, or go to my bad ass massage therapist.
Good Grape: What was the last great restaurant you ate at?
Arthur: Abroad - Al Gallopapa in Castellina, Chianti, a truly amazing meal though I wouldn’t call it “traditional” Italian. The restaurant is rather innovative and savvy, and though I love the various regional flavors of central Chianti, like wild boar, I would still highly recommend anyone traveling in Tuscany to check this place out.
Nationally - Recently in Vegas, I drooled over a sweet prawn and ginger consume that I could have literally guzzled buckets of at Mina’s place, Nob Hill.
Locally – Restaurant Tallent, owned by the “bad ass” duo, Krissy and Dave Tallent, whom I love and are my guardian angels when I’m in Bloomington and am up to no good. FYI – take in a CD of Kenny Loggins for Dave and get a free appetizer!
For seafood, though, I have to recognize Oceanaire in downtown Indy. The staff is great, the GM Roddy Kirschenmen has great wine knowledge, and the Chef Ryan Nelson, has mad skills and has prepared some of the best fish preps I’ve eaten in the country.
Good Grape: What is your favorite ice cream flavor?
Arthur: I don’t really dig on ice cream that much, but I recently have a super cool jalapeño ice cream at H2O Sushi here in Indy. This restaurant is the place to go if you want a great experience and wicked ice cream flavors, ranging from truffles to Guinness, and everything in between.
Good Grape: What is the best compliment you have ever received?
Arthur: Wow! How do you answer this without sounding like a complete self absorbed wank? Just a couple of weeks ago, my mentor, wine sensei, great friend, and awesome wine educator, Matt Citriglia MS, told me, “there isn’t anything else that I can teach you.” Whether true or not, for me, it was like Yoda telling Luke he is a Jedi!
Ok, so I might have avoided the self-absorbed portion, but definitely sounded like a wank with the Star Wars reference.
Good Grape: “2 Truths And a Lie” – Share 3 unique things about yourself and your life, 2 of them true, 1 false, readers will guess by leaving a comment
Arthur: U can’t tell it if I’m wearing a Polo, but I have 9 tattoos, including a piece on my back of the Egyptian god of the wine press, which also happens to be the god of blood, persecutor of the wicked, and the god of righteousness.
I used to have a mullet
I like Nascar
*Ed Note* This post has been edited on August 5, 2008 from its original form
June 2 2008
Riddle me this: What do you get when you combine Midwestern expatriates, a small production, 1500 case producer of allocated Napa wine, a winery that leverages Web 2.0 and social media, AND a winery that recently hired winemaking maestro Heidi Barrett, current star of the California “Land of Wine & Food” ad campaign and a winemaker with a resume that makes others green with envy?
You get Fantesca; a beautiful winery producing beautiful wine, as if that were enough.
However, Duane Hoff and his wife Susan are doing so many darn things right it is hard to know where to start with the gushing.
First, I love their companion site to Fantesca, Adopt a Grape (brilliantly executed from a marketing perspective by keeping the site, with cinematic help from my pal B. Napa, separate from the wine brand). Second, their back-story on the naming of Fantesca and their social object or signature has to be one of the most interesting and creative in the Valley. Third, Duane Hoff is a nice, funny guy. And, fourth, he just hired Heidi Barrett for pete’s sake.
Throw in Facebook, the Open Wine Consortium and a bunch of other Internet-savvy tricks and this alchemy can mean only one thing: Better sign up for the mailing list soon.
I caught up with Duane for “20 Not So Penetrating Questions” and I think you’ll see that he’s as genuine, bright and humorous as you might expect for somebody that is making all of the right moves to make Fantesca not just the great winery that it is today, but also one that will be heavily managing the velvet rope on allocations in the future.
Plus, he’s down with 80’s music and Keyser Soze, which makes him a-ok in my book, but no way can he dunk a basketball (see the last question and take your own guess).
Good Grape: Which of the Seven Deadly Sins are you most guilty of?
Duane: I would have to say “Pride”. It isn’t enough to know your own abilities. You have to know your limitations and how many hours there are in each day.
Good Grape: What is your biggest pet peeve?
Duane: Those political buttons with a “W” and a red circle and slash through it. Hating George Bush isn’t much of a strategy for improving the country.
Good Grape: What is on your nightstand?
Duane: Wine and War: The French, The Nazis and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure by Don and Petie Kladstrup and a Conan the Barbarian novel.
It’s kind of like Dennis Miller said. “The reason “Wheel of Fortune” is on right after “Jeopardy” is that once you’ve been forced to choke down the foul-tasting tequila shot of your own abject ignorance, it’s nice to be able to bite into the refreshing lime wedge of other people’s incredible stupidity.”
Ed. Note: Check out pictures of Duane’s wife. Here at Good Grape, if married to Susan, we wouldn’t keep anything on the nightstand.
Good Grape: What is in your refrigerator or pantry that you wouldn’t openly admit?
Duane: Dark Chocolate Covered Potato Chips. Mother of God, they are good!
Good Grape: What do you drink when you’re not drinking wine?
Duane: The adage that it takes a lot of good beer to make great wine is in effect. I am also not opposed to the occasional rum powered “boat drink” if the weather is hot.
Good Grape: What type of music or radio station is played most often at Fantesca?
Duane: I like to torment the younger guys with my passionate knowledge of 80’s rock lyrics and trivia.
Good Grape: In what era would you live if you transport yourself?
Duane: The United States at the turn of the 20th Century. It was a period characterized by extraordinary optimism and growth. The spirit of this was captured in the Art Deco architecture of the time. The Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building were completed a year apart in 1930-1931. Both buildings were completed on time and under budget. The Empire State Building was the tallest in the world for 41 years. The Chrysler Building remains the tallest brick building ever built. I greatly admire the indomitable spirit of that era.
Good Grape: What is the best wine-related book you’ve read?
Duane: “Plain Talk about Fine Wine” by Justin Meyer. Justin Meyer founded Silver Oak Winery. He wrote a wonderful straightforward book about enjoying wine, and making wine. He holds wine up as a gift from God to be enjoyed. Never stuffy or pretentious, but worthy of your attention.
Good Grape: What is your favorite movie genre?
Duane: I love plot twisting dramas like “The Usual Suspects” and “Memento”.
Good Grape: Is your desk messy or organized?
Duane: I have a great quote about that here somewhere… I just can’t find it right now.
Good Grape: Are you always early or terminally late?
Duane: Define terminally.
Good Grape: Do you read the comics in the newspaper? If so, what’s your favorite comic?
Duane: I love Dilbert. It reminds me why I go to a winery every day instead of an office.
Good Grape: Who would you want to play you in the movie about your life?
Duane: My wife suggested Jon Bon Jovi. I would ask for Chris Rock. That way my jokes would actually be funny.
Good Grape: What super-power would you most like to have, and why?
Duane: Do you remember Superman flying around earth so fast that he could go back in time by a few hours? I have two teenagers. That skill would come in handy.
Good Grape: You are moving and can only take three or four articles you want to take with you. What would you grab?
Duane: My amazing Goodall Guitar, my laptop, and some great wines. That and my wife and kids, and I am set to go!
Good Grape: What do you do if you have a spare hour?
Duane: I see if my busy kids can hang out with me and watch something we recorded on TiVo. I am a big fan of TiVo because it allows us to find things we want to watch together. My son and I love Mythbusters, and he tries to explain South Park to me… My daughter and I watch American Idol together and occasionally, “So You Think You Can Dance”. It gives us great things to talk about over dinner.
Good Grape: What was the last great restaurant you ate at?
Duane: Mama’s Fish House in Maui. The restaurant is just off the surf of the north shore of Maui. It is stunningly beautiful. The seafood is “pound on the table” good! The recipes were gathered as the family sailed on their small boat around the South Pacific in the 70’s. The menu changes every day based on what the daily catch is and the menu identifies the fisherman that caught it. No Ka Oi (It’s the best!).
Good Grape: What is your favorite ice cream flavor?
Duane: A hot fudge sundae. Food Nirvana.
Good Grape: What is the best compliment you have ever received?
Duane: I am lucky enough to hear it all the time: “Your children are terrific”.
Good Grape: “2 Truths And a Lie” – Share 3 unique things about yourself and your life, 2 of them true, 1 false, readers will guess by leaving a comment
Duane:
I lived in England for a year with my parents as part an exchange program.
I won the 1981 Little International Livestock Judging Competition.
I can dunk a basketball.
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